Chinese Tea Art – Dian Cha (Whisking Tea) Song Dynasty – by MingMing Wang

Tea, this enchanting leaf from the East, has undergone millennia of evolution since the time of Shennong. By the Tang and Song dynasties, tea had become deeply woven into the fabric of society. In the Tang Dynasty, the method of boiling tea prevailed, and the esteemed Lu Yu’s Classic of Tea laid the cornerstone of Chinese tea culture.
In the Song Dynasty, tea preparation underwent a profound metamorphosis, shifting from boiling to the refined art of whisking. Emperor Huizong of Song, both a devotee and practitioner of this craft, elevated it to an art form. His seminal work, Treatise on Tea, meticulously outlined the seven stages of tea whisking—highlighting the finesse required in pouring water, the precision of wrist movements, and the stability of the foam—collectively known as the illustrious “Seven Infusions Method.” Every infusion demanded exact control, where the flow of water and the rhythm of the whisking defined the foam’s texture and its enduring luster. With dexterous hands, Song tea masters harmonized tea powder and water, producing a frothy, velvety foam called ‘mo bo,’ resembling delicate blossoms in milk. Set against the backdrop of a black-glazed tea bowl, the contrast between the white foam and the dark vessel created a vision of stark, breathtaking elegance.
In the Song Dynasty, tea whisking was far more than a craft; it became a pursuit of higher aesthetic and spiritual fulfillment for scholars and poets alike. The renowned poet Su Dongpo, in likening fine tea to a beautiful woman, seamlessly intertwined the artistry of tea with cultural richness, unveiling the profound elegance within the tea art’s quiet gestures.
In recognition of this ancient craft, tea whisking was inscribed in 2022 on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, a testament to China’s deep and enduring tea traditions, and its unparalleled charm on the global stage.
For the Song literati, tea whisking was a pathway to serenity and spiritual refinement, an art that transcended the material world in pursuit of inner elevation. However, with the dawn of the Ming Dynasty, the Dragon and Phoenix tea cakes gradually disappeared into the annals of history, and the tradition of drinking powdered tea in China faded with them. Yet, the legacy of Song tea whisking reverberated far beyond China, leaving an indelible mark on the Japanese tea ceremony, preserving its spirit in the heart of another culture.
Today, as we reflect upon the tea whisking of the Song Dynasty, we are not merely commemorating an ancient art, but honoring a profound aesthetic of life. Tea whisking carried the Song people’s quest for beauty, and across the span of a thousand years, it still shines with brilliance. It is not just the act of drinking tea, but an invitation to reflect on life—a harmonious union of life and art.